Florida Circumnavigational Saltwater Paddling Trail
Emergency contact information:
Jefferson County Sheriff’s Office: 850-997-2523
Taylor County Sheriff’s Office: 850-584-4225
Dixie County Sheriff’s Office: 352-498-1220
Levy County Sheriff’s Office: 352-486-5111
Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation
Commission 24-hour wildlife emergency/boating under the influence
End: Cross Florida
Greenway spoil island campsite near Yankeetown
This is a remote area
where cell phone coverage can be non-existent. Being properly equipped
and prepared and leaving a float plan is very important. Also, you may
travel two to four days at a time without being able to replenish fresh
water supplies, and opportunities for replenishing food supplies are
also scarce, so plan accordingly. The coast here can be very shallow and
low tides can present a problem for navigation and when seeking to land
or launch. Keep a tide chart to help plan your trip. You may have to
paddle a mile or two off the coast during extreme low tides.
With the exception of the
Ten Thousand Islands/Everglades segment, this is the remotest segment of
the trail, featuring long stretches of unspoiled shoreline, marsh
expanses, and sea islands. The Big Bend also has the most stable
population of bay scallops in the state and the most intact seagrass
beds. These seagrass beds serve as vitally important nurseries for fish,
shrimp, crabs and a host of other marine species, one reason the Big
Bend Seagrasses Aquatic Preserve covers much of this segment. Spanning
more than 945,000 acres, the aquatic preserve is the largest and
possibly the most pristine in the state. To learn more, log onto
Fortunately, much of the
Big Bend coastline is in public ownership. The first 105-mile stretch of
the trail, including six primitive campsites, is managed by the Florida
Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC) as part of the Big Bend
Saltwater Paddling Trail. Free permits must be obtained before using any
of the campsites and you must paddle from top to bottom. Campsites are
marked by white poles and signs and limited to 8 persons and 4 backpacking
size tents to better protect the fragile coastal environment, a general
rule to follow along the entire segment. The six campsites are closed
during the busy July and August scallop season. These are not the best
months for overnight camping anyway. The FWC trail guide is recommended
for paddlers in this section as it provides more detailed information and
waterproof maps. For more information about FWC permits and how to
purchase the trail guide, log onto
Near the Suwannee River,
you’ll pass through lands managed by the Lower Suwannee National Wildlife
. The refuge covers numerous islands and more than twenty miles
of the famed river of song.
Near Cedar Key, the Cedar
Keys National Wildlife Refuge encompasses 13 historic and wildlife-rich
islands ranging in size from 1 to 120 acres, totaling 762 acres,
It is unlawful to camp on either the Lower Suwannee or Cedar Keys
national wildlife refuges.
Two state parks are part of
this segment-Econfina River and Waccasassa Bay Preserve. Econfina River
encompasses more than 3,000 acres of pine flatwoods, oak/palm hammocks,
and broad expanses of marsh and tree islands. The 34,000-acre Waccasassa
Bay Preserve State Park offers sweeping marsh vistas and tree islands
between Cedar Key and Yankeetown. To learn more about these two parks, log
There are many friendly trail towns in this segment that
offer restaurants, small grocery stores, and some have motels.
Advice and fishing yarns are generally free of charge.
Information on local communities along the trail can be obtained
by logging onto
www.purewaterwilderness.com . In addition, shuttle
services are available from these outfitters:
http://suwanneeguides.com/. St. Marks outfitters also
offers on the water boat support.
Leave No Trace principles should
be followed in camping at designated primitive sites in order to keep them open
paddlers. To learn more about Leave No Trace principles, log onto
Lower Aucilla River Launch to Econfina River State Park, 10 miles
From the Aucilla
River mouth, it is about four miles to the mouth of the Econfina, and another
2.5 miles to the state park boat ramp.
paddler's campsite is about a mile upriver from the boat ramp and is on high
ground in the river forest along the west bank. Shoals just above a small bridge
before the campsite may inhibit passage at low tide or during low water
conditions. If this is the case, you may want to wait an hour or so at the boat
landing before attempting again with a rising tide or elect to stay at the
private campground. The primitive campsite is free and requires no permit.
However, the park would like for campers to notify them if using the site so
they can gauge use, 850-922-6007. There is a two-night maximum stay.
If the primitive site is occupied
or cannot be reached, then arrange for camping through the park concessionaire
(The Econfina River Resort) at 850-584-2135, or visit their store. The
campground and store, along with showers and bathrooms, are a quarter mile north
of the park boat ramp along a paved road. There is a fee. The store is closed on
Mondays. You can also access the store from the primitive campsite by hiking a
red blazed trail to the park road and turning left for a total of about a mile.
The trail, like other hiking trails in the park, are best utilized in cool
weather when venomous snakes and ticks are dormant.
The area is known for having an abundance of pygmy rattlesnakes.
The river above
the campsite is worth a paddle. Large live oaks and other hardwoods arch over
the waterway, and numerous wildflowers often bloom along shore.
2. Econfina River State Park to Rock Island Campsite, 10.5 miles
Leave the state park with a 2-day supply of water.
An optional rest stop about
halfway to Rock Island is the Hickory Mound Impoundment, where there is a picnic
area and an observation tower. The tower will likely be visible from the water.
You'll need the FWC trail guide for the best route up a tidal creek to the
Rock Island is the larger
of two offshore islands, where you can land in a narrow rocky cove on
the north side. The island, about 20 acres in size, is interesting to
explore, with its many tidal pools and exposed limestone. It can be
buggy in warm weather, however. Be sure to stow away food to keep
3. Rock Island Campsite to Spring Warrior Creek Campsite, 11
Leaving the island, it is a little over two miles to the mouth of the
Fenholloway River, which may have an unpleasant smell due to effluent
from a paper mill. A good rest stop is Big Spring Creek, about three
miles past the Fenholloway, where you can access a picnic area and a
spring run (3 miles roundtrip).
About 3 miles from the mouth of
Big Spring Creek is the Spring Warrior channel marker. It is 1.6 miles to the
campsite. Paddling up Spring Warrior can be challenging in a falling tide.
Before the campsite, you can obtain fresh water from the Spring Warrior Fish
Camp where lodging is also available. If unattended, you can use a hose on the side of the building, but this
water may not be potable. The campsite is along a bend on the right side about a
half-mile upstream from the fish camp. The campsite was once a Thanksgiving
gathering place for a local family. You can explore the scenic river for about
another mile upstream until logjams may restrict passage.
4. Spring Warrior Creek Campsite to Sponge Point Campsite, 12.5
As you cruise along the
marsh, you may notice small outcroppings where cedar trees are growing.
These are often the brick and stone remnants of Confederate saltworks
where furnaces and iron kettles were set up during the Civil War to boil
seawater to obtain salt. Salt was vitally needed to cure meat for the
Confederate Army. Many of the salt works were destroyed by Union raids
near the end of the war.
A must stop is the county park at
Keaton Beach where you can have a picnic, take an outdoor shower, replenish
water supplies, and eat in a nearby restaurant. There are a couple of small
convenience stores along the town's main road along with an opportunity for
lodging at the Keaton Beach Marina and Motel (850-578-2897). Inexpensive
beach house rentals are available through the Gulf Coast Realty (850-587-2039).
Leave Keaton Beach with enough water for two days.
Sponge Point, marked by
majestic coastal live oak trees, appears to be an island as it is
separated from the mainland by an expanse of marsh. Its name was derived
from spongers that once frequented the Big Bend Coast. A massive 1940s
outbreak of red tide, coupled with the advent of synthetic sponges,
severely curtailed the native sponge industry. Be watchful of prickly
pear cacti when hiking the island.
For restrooms and a
covered picnic shelter, you can paddle to Hagen’s Cove a half mile to
the east, although no camping is allowed.
5. Sponge Point Campsite to Dallus Creek Campsite, 8 miles
This is a short day along more shallow tidal creeks, but there are
several options to further explore the area. From your campsite, you can
paddle up Dallus Creek another 1.3 miles to a boat ramp and picnic area
where you can hike a 2-mile loop trail. During high tide, you can paddle
Dallus Creek past the boat ramp to its swampy origin or take a 3.5-mile
loop around Clay Creek (see FWC guide).
The remote campsite is in a grove
of coastal live oaks at the end of a cleared trail through needlerush. Be
watchful of rattlesnakes during warm weather. The campsite may be difficult to
reach during low tide.
6. Dallus Creek Campsite to Steinhatchee, 8 miles
Steinhatchee is the largest town in this segment until you reach Cedar
Key. Here, you can rent a motel room or campsite, sample restaurant
fare, and stock up on supplies. You should arrange for your stay in
advance by selecting a motel or private campground utilizing either of
. One easily accessible overnight stop in Steinhatchee,
and clearly marked from the water, is the Sea Hag Marina (352-498-3008).
Another paddler-friendly option is the Good Times Marina (352-498-8088).
There are public boat ramps on both sides of the river.
7. Steinhatchee to Sink Creek Campsite, 10 miles
Sink Creek, one of the more remote spots along the trail, is an
island-like spot surrounded by tidal creeks, marsh and sand flats. It is
about a half mile in from the mouth of the creek on the south bank. A
high tide will make accessibility easier.
Behind the campsite at
low tide, you can hike the salt flats--an open sandy ribbon between
marsh and tree hammocks. Look for evidence of rising sea levels as many
cedars and other trees have died, leaving behind their naturally
A brackish spring is a
quarter mile upstream near a remote boat ramp. Here, you can take a
swim, explore numerous small sinkholes, and hike the back roads for
great vistas. The spring area is where mullet fisherman camped and
traded salted fish for farm produce and other goods in the early 1900s.
A fish house once stood on the shore, but like many of the Big Bend’s
shoreline areas, storms and rising sea levels have erased most obvious
signs of human existence.
8. Sink Creek Campsite to Butler Island Campsite, 14 miles
From the campsite, Bowlegs Point is a good rest stop, about 2.5 miles
away. Past the point, you can only cruise between Pepperfish Keys and
the mainland at high tide. Otherwise, stay on the Gulf side. Northern
Pepperfish Key is a bird rookery, so keep at least 300 feet from the
island so as not to disturb nesting wading birds.
A good rest stop near the
end of the day is a county park at the town of Horseshoe Beach. You can
replenish water supplies—enough for two days--and walk a short distance
to a convenience store and a restaurant. An overnight option is to rent
a room at the El Sea's Fish Camp, accessible by floating dock along the
main canal through town on right (just less than a quarter mile in from
the Gulf). Call (352) 498-8036 for reservations and directions (see
The Butler Island Campsite is 1.7
miles from Horseshoe Point, on the south side of the island. Camping is beneath
a canopy of live oaks, palms and a rare stand of mature cedars, but beware of
poison ivy. As with other sites, the low-lying coontie palm grows here, a
protected species. The starchy tubers--poisonous if not prepared properly--were
once an important food source for Native Americans and early settlers.
9. Butler Island Campsite to Anderson Landing, River Camp in Suwannee,
From Butler Island, you'll pass
through a maze of oyster bars across Horseshoe Cove. As you enter the Lower
Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge, several tidal creeks offer scenic paddling
opportunities, and Fishbone Creek has an observation tower about 1.5 miles from
the mouth. If you want to explore the area further, one option is to stay at the
county campground at Shired Island (pronounced Sheered), about 5 miles from
Butler Island (fee required). The water is not potable. Nearby, a large
Indian shell midden about 12 feet high, with sides exposed due to erosion, is
Several islands in the refuge,
such as Big Pine Island, offer inviting white sand beaches and palm-lined
shores, great for rest stops. Bear in mind that Cat Island, near the mouth of
Salt Creek, is privately owned but camping is allowed on an emergency basis and
it is an enjoyable rest stop. From Cat Island, follow the gps point on the
map to the canal along the east side of Suwannee and Highway 349. Paddle along
the canal about a mile to Anderson Landing. There is a small fee for primitive
camping and a motel is next door at Bill’s Fish Camp. For reservations for both
the campground and motel, call 352-542-7086. Suwannee has two restaurants within
10. Anderson Landing River Camp to Shell Mound Park Campground, 12
From the campsite, it is a fairly straight shot to the lower Suwannee
River via a canal. Paddle downstream to the river mouth through West
Pass, being wary of strong currents and boat traffic. Continuing
southeast along the coast, a good rest stop is the white sandy beach of
Deer Island. One option for camping near Deer Island is the private
Clark Island, where you can stay for a fee. Call Nature Coast
Expeditions at 352-543-6463 for more information. As with many areas
along the Big Bend, access at low tide can be tricky.
The county campground at
the Shell Mound County Park is inexpensive and on the water, although
the ramp can be difficult to reach at low tide. A half mile away, you
can access the boat ramp at the Shell Mound historic site at low tide
and walk to the campground if necessary.
The historic shell mound
is a must see. This five-acre, 28-foot tall Timucuan Indian mound
affords a panoramic view of a Gulf Coast wilderness. It was primarily
built from discarded oyster and scallop shells over the course of
generations that may have spanned 3500 years.
11. Shell Mound
Campground to Hall Creek Campsite, 10 miles
The shortest route is to paddle
close to the mainland and pass beneath the bridge to Cedar Key on your way to
Hall Creek. You'll pass numerous small islands on your way. Hall Creek, Kelly
Creek, Waccasassa River and Turtle Creek campsites are part of the Waccasassa
Bay Preserve State Park and are available free of charge on a first-come,
first-serve basis. The campsites are not exclusively for paddlers, so you may be
sharing them with boaters.
If you seek to visit the
historic town of Cedar Key, cross under the bridge and paddle around
Scale Key to a cove on the southwest part of town where you can land at
the Cedar Key Park (see map). This will add up to two miles to your day.
At Cedar Key, you can buy groceries, eat in a restaurant, visit a
museum, and peruse numerous shops. In the late 1800s, Cedar Key was a
major port city and processor of cedar logs for the pencil industry.
Several factors contributed to its downfall: hurricanes, the emergence
of Tampa as a major port, and the depletion of old-growth cedar trees.
Today, tourism is a major industry. Cedar Key is also known for its
One option is to stay at
Cedar Key in one of many waterfront motels and kayak to the scenic
islands of the Cedar Key National Wildlife Refuge. All beaches along the
islands are open for public access with the exception of Seahorse Key
from March 1 through June 30 due to bird nesting. Atsena Otie Island, a
half mile south of Cedar Key, is the only island where the interior is
open for hiking year-round. Here, you can view an explanatory kiosk and
the historic ruins of the Faber cedar mill near the dock and walk to the
eastern end of the island to view the historic cemetery.
Seahorse Key is another must stop
when the beaches are open. This former prison for Confederate soldiers has the
highest elevation on Florida's west coast, rising 52 feet. Other nearby islands
include Snake Key and North Key. The interiors of these islands are closed to
the public, and for good reason. They have venomous snakes and thick
For information on
lodging, restaurants and other Cedar Key offerings, log onto the Cedar
Key Chamber of Commerce website at
staying at Cedar Key, be sure to take the historic walking tour.
Brochures can be purchased from the Cedar Key Historical Society Museum
in the old downtown.
After entering Hall Creek, follow
the winding main channel through the marsh to the first tree island on the left.
You'll see a small side creek that takes you closer to this one-acre site.
12. Hall Creek Campsite to Kelly Creek Campsite, 8 miles
Kelly Creek is another unspoiled tidal creek along the marshy coast. The
campsite is about a mile upstream from the mouth of Kelly Creek. After entering
the mouth, stay in the main channel as you proceed up the creek. You'll begin
passing through an area of bleached dead cedars and palms. The campsite is a
large 2-3 acre tree island on the right. Land on the backside (north) where you
can more easily get out of the current. There's plenty of room to spread out
and the island has a stone fire ring.
13. Kelly Creek Campsite to Waccasassa River Campsite, 7 miles
One option for this day is to paddle up the Waccasassa River, initially
following channel markers that stretch into the bay. The campsite is
along a small side creek on the west side of the river called Double
Barrel Creek. If you're not a thru paddler, you can access this area
from a remote boat ramp along the upper Waccasassa River at the end of
County Road 326 near Gulf Hammock, about 4 miles upriver from the river
14. Waccasassa River Campsite to Cross Florida Greenway Spoil Island
Campsite, 15 miles
It may seem that the wild tidal
creeks, marshy vistas and scenic tree islands will never end as you paddle to
the boat ramp near Yankeetown at the mouth of the Withlacoochee River. The town
itself is 3.5 miles up the Withlacoochee River where limited supplies can be
obtained. B's Fish Camp and Marina in Yankeetown offers tent camping with
showers, restrooms and a small grocery store (352 447-5888). Yankeetown is a
picturesque fishing village with old-growth trees and stately homes.
The spoil island campsite is
about two miles past the ramp (see map for GPS point). This island was created
by dredging a channel for the now defunct Cross Florida Barge Canal. The old
canal lands are now primarily managed for recreation as part of the Cross
. Primitive camping is on a first-come, first-serve basis.